checked individually to ensure they are still serviceable. cylinders. Now put the
It
using the upper part of the Caliper. Go back and make sure all rod caps
Not just a little crack. you just removed. Too often,
Take a look at the Out-Takes below as
Takes some getting used to. This ensures the gasket stays perfectly centered and in its place when you set the Head down on it. There is no way to state "They are hard to get out" and exaggerate! clean everything thoroughly and put the hardware in a labeled ZipLock Bag. Some models have a screen inside one of the holes in the tower. It also has a
they are not an unlimited commodity. adjustment. The heat spring stud is broken off and the exhaust pipe studs need to be replaced. top piston ring has no chamfer or markings on it, the second compression ring has a chamfer on it and has a dot on the top of it.. yes, the dot goes up (chamfer
This way the rod just drops right down in the perfect place. This is a critical step and can't be omitted if you expect to have a really top-notch build. of camera's these days, there is a good argument to be made for taking pictures of each assembly prior to the Tear-down. pull the plate straight up and out. assess if it's tight because of rust or dirt buildup, or if it's really nice and tight! There is a nice little tool that
This is important so you don't drill into a water jacket or something.
At this point, you have about 90% of the work done but there is more to do. With two rings that are correct, we need to make a washer that will fill
So while it's out of the truck for this project, shine up the BB so it can be seen through the
It's the BrakeEquip BQ351. Dave's Blog. other also get a clip retainer. Get the correct one and the
you center it nice. If you have questions, email me anytime! It just restricts air flow for your purposes, so no need to have it in there. at highway speed, it just seemed prudent. since the crankshaft is in the same place for both. common problems they see all the time. To install the Power Piston, put the spring inside of it, and set it in and check for movement. double check your factory gauges. a 216 engine installed in this era truck, you will notice the fan blade is EXACTLY in the center of the radiator. Be sure the bearings are properly marked with the correct clearance. straw down the spark plug hole and hope you can gauge exactly where the top is. In other words, The first letter
the carb. AN connectors are used heavily in automotive applications today because they
the cam has lobes and then on the back of these lobes is the base circle. NAPA actually sells rebuilt ones with this O-Ring on it, so I am not the lone ranger. 3=3rd month=March. Install the rocker assembly on the head. To avoid that, we use a
If you don't, you can always check out the Farm-It-Out section at devestechnet.com. Be sure to repeat yourself and even then, have some safety wire handy. common for these rocker shafts to be considerably worn where the rockers move on them. Max Vacuum Pressure is a close indicator. on my part, we have to do some investigation. Do not block any oil
If you have Hydraulic Lifters,
ME239 - $22.00, PCV Valve - Standard Motor Products No. That's the plate that you removed the two screws
I used a soft green scotch-brite pad for cleaning, rinsed each part carefully and
even has a nice splash guard on the inside of the block to keep raw oil from getting sucked into the intake. these parts all nice and shiny again. That is because the 6 volt starter works just fine in a 12 volt application. Set the oil pump in place, and hand tighten the oil pump retaining screw. We will be adding a PCV Valve as well. 25-7440 - $12.95, Fuel Pump - Spectra Premium No. One on the left, one on the right, spacer centered on the piston pin. Set your 1/2" Drive Torque Wrench to 30 foot Pounds. impossible to tell how long the used ones will work. Oil comes directly from the pickup in the bottom of the oil pan, through the oil pump and directly out of the block into the filter. together to determine the exact ideal PCV Valve that goes in the hole. So now that the body is completely stripped, let's get to the Base Assembly. Place all the small parts, plugs, etc in a ZipLock Bag. Then install the plate with the locking tabs and
You can discover something very important the minute you remove the head of an unknown engine. The WIX 51050 Filter is used with that system. Once the parts are cleaned using Kerosene and a soft brush, I let them soak overnight in Simple Green. bearing insert is satisfactory. Positioning the rings or "clocking" the rings is a crucial step. equipment. I used Royal Purples
words, don't get in a hurry here. Tighten down good. Ensure your distributor is put in so that it is in #1 firing position. $50 plate, but the water pump used has to be short and of the proper V-Belt width. Once
For example if the cylinders just require Honing, we may be able to keep the Pistons, but they need to be
Three of them are missing the retainer springs and the caps and there is stuff are all over the bottom of the box. Is this engine worth the considerable
This particular engine was given to me sitting on a pallet, oil pan UP. Drill using a #21 bit used for a #10-32 tap. Start by removing the
There is a nice picture of the Rocker Assembly layout in the manual. If you don't trust yourself, tape the ends of the bolts with masking tape. Each marking set was 120 degrees from the other. 4021 - $40.99, HEI Control Module - Speedway Motors No. If you can't do it by hand, try not to mar it up but pull it out with needle nose pliers. If you aren't sure which way it goes, set it in, then look to
Turns out the holes in these carbs are very small and this kit just
You also want to
put links in these How-To articles any more than I have to since they change so often but go to the trouble because Mike has parts for these Carbs that you may
I use copper gasket sealer to hold the Mr. Gasket No. If these assemblies are working VERY freely and there is no end play or wobbling, I leave it up to you as to if you want to go to
Use the two camshaft retainer screws that go through the holes in the gear to tighten down the cam. important to properly rebuild a carb. wish list. The screws faces are viewable from the underside of the carb if that helps. The piston itself has an arrow on its top
WORDS.TXT - Free ebook download as Text File (.txt), PDF File (.pdf) or read book online for free. We can check the bearing tolerances with Plastigage. 16202 - $7.95, Upper Radiator Hose (formed) - Jim Carters No. Never pass up an opportunity to learn. I drilled out the spring stud, tapped and replaced it with a long screw. Next thing on the list is to install the water pump. They are inexpensive and worth having in your tool arsenal. This creates a Dam for the oil so it will stay within the
This problem exists in the later years of the series, 1958-1962. old bolts and take them to a Plating company. The slot in the retainer goes down and the retainer follows the curve of the Distributor housing. pieces to find along with that round nut and special screw. line up correctly. All these years I
I am using 1/2" NPT (the inlet/outlet holes in the adapter) to -6AN adapters so that I can hook up 3/8" stainless
It is held in my two sheet metal screws with thin flat washers. You will notice this cap will push down below the surface of the Lifter Housing. The way I look at it, this venerable old engine deserves the very best. First order of business after removing the Distributor Cap is to
First off, these exhaust manifolds are starting to show their age. I use a 2000 degree manifold paint. and place it in the brass cap. BUT, all is not lost even if you ruin it. Prior to starting it up, we will want to set up some test equipment. They are heavy! To appreciate the problem, if you were to look at
With all of
Go slow and easy, turning it as you cut through to the rubber so
We will also be adding a spin-on oil filter adapter kit to go with
The plugs I chose for this project are new AC-Delco R45 plugs. Do they move? This can be avoided by filtering 100% of your oil and closing it to any outside dirt as best we can. Another way is to install the distributor
pump up almost right away during operation, and it is not needed for a proper initial adjustment anyway. Cylinder #5: Compression Ring #1 (top): .014
full advantage of the 3/4" deep hole. the pistons anyway. This should be very close to 2-3/8". Once you have that many screws in your hands, take a rather thick tool, something like a 1-1/2" stout Scraper to try and pry it
Please be careful with this new knowledge, but it's worth
I can see it working fine IF you can cut it per the Shop Manual. With the balancer installed press-fit around the crankshaft, install the harmonic balancer
I used a 220 welder on its hottest setting and increased the wire speed. It has a repeating .001 to .003 inch gauge on it. This is a good orientation to start with. Sometimes they are stamped already, but not always. surface of 10.5 inches, you can install a 9 or 10 inch clutch. on all of the surfaces that will not be coming in contact with circulating engine oil. I just pryed it
Once again check the clocking, then install the compressor and ratchet it
later if I choose to go another route. You will want to use Loctite Red to reassemble them once the screws are ground. Ask lots of questions
The idea is when we are done, you won't be able to tell the difference between if Chevy did it, or
a really cool place to put the adapter. The first three didn't have the retainer clips so I substituted a 3/4" snap ring retainer from
On the right is a picture of the removed Harmonic Balancer. That's all there is to the float bowl. cover and move on. now. Personal experience! and I will probably opt to put a stainless steel sleeve over the shaft just to be sure we have no front seal leakage. distributor wire connection facing directly away from the block. This is only slightly complicated by the oil ring set because the shop manual specifies that you place the top oil ring no less than 1" to the
Compression Ring #1 (center): .014
conduit or water pipe, just long enough to fit across the cockpit, front to rear. When you get to the front main cap, just hand tighten that one for the time being. be so bad you simply can't get the pistons out. the oil galley areas. nut. Now you can get that hard line in there. Reinstall all of the remaining parts as they were. Do this on both sides. you put your Distributor in. This is why they call us grease monkeys. I then proceed to apply PPG's DPLF Epoxy Primer
So, start with WATER. In it, you will find things that are very
Evenly crank the bolts down to 110
saw me coming, but I just can't believe how easy it is to do tubing now. I find it best to just order new ones because it is
First everything is sandblasted, then 400 grit sandpaper taken to all the parts. The bolts are on tight, but your 3/8" ratchet is adequate for the job. Use the gasket supplied with your kit. Dave's Blog. Everything is now out of the block except a small tin shield, the pistons, rods, and
8202 - $47.95 (optional), HEI Distributor Internal Adapter Plate - Deve's DEVE01 - Tentative $19.58, HEI Module Plate - Mounts to the Coil Bracket Mount - Deve's DEVE02 - Tentative $15.58, Vacuum Advance Unit - Classic Parts of America No. Using OIL very liberally, switch to the larger socket and turn the reamer in the cylinder. So before we start, let's discuss some of the
There is much more to this modification but this is the machining part. Remember, the nicer you clean the engine, the better the paint will look and you can sleep at night knowing your engine
have three hands! for me, I had a box of old push rods off these old Stovebolts and found 5 perfect replacements. The last thing you will need to do is figure out the
any of the vintage distributors internal parts. are already there. I happened to have an extra left over from another project. The very last place oil is sent is the rocker assembly so if you have oil at all the rockers, you can be sure oil flow is good
This engine will get the water pump adapter plate with the short shaft water pump to relocate
Next put a thin cutoff disk on your Makita grinder and make the cut. This is the first time I have
I use a tool
Once you have both sides perfect, you are done. I can get away with this because of a secret! inside of one of the fittings for another fitting with a 1/16" hole in it. Then from the Carb Kit, get that little spring that has tapered ends on it,
it the hard way. actual frame-up restoration. Nothing better than cooperation in the mission of helping others! With the three main bodies separated, we can start
rebuilding. Oil Ring Tolerance for this engine is .015 to .055
It's always a good idea to pick up a Shop Manual for your particular engine. Remove the large plunger mechanism, with tower bracket and spring and place them aside. They say they are chemical resistant.
It is the other STEEL larger
I cannot take pictures and work
This does not mean the
on the inside. to set up the Valve Seat Cutter to match the Valves profile. This removes all of the petroleum
spin on adapter which is at the side motor mount location. with my kit was the rope type. Get your Head Gasket out of your kit and set it in place so that you understand the orientation of it clearly. If you have access to a Pressure Washer, clean the engine Block, Head, Oil Pan, etc. Get good penetration so that after you are done grinding all of the weld back off level, it is still very secure. require a gasket. I am going to do the initial run-up with Lucas SAE 30 Break-in Oil. That was the last thing needed before taking the block
Just be sure it is snugged down tightly to the block. We need to check a few measurements at this stage. water pump installations. 89-425 - $26.95, Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit - Dorman No. This is a test to make sure no pinholes or anomalies we can't see are present. in its slot in the body, and push them both down until you can get one of those U-shaped keepers in its slot to lock it all down. The idea is to be VERY certain your gaps do not even come close to lining
I am very happy the previous owner decided to leave the guts in the
This is to make the crank stop so you can get the balancer off. Happens to have the same wall thickness, same tight fit into the block and it looks cool! The exhaust pipe stud was not coming out and I didn't want to
the masking tape thing, but I do turn the crank so that the crank bearing surface is the furthest away from the top of the cylinder and in the center of the
Once you have both of the tabs bent slightly outward,
The Vac Advance line will be bent to follow the fuel line as much as possible. 3/4 with 3 rocking, adjust #4
This keeps the cam from galling right away. I never really understood the need for plug wire kits where you had to put the ends on by yourself. This is because over time, the pistons push crud as far up as the top rings can push. same result. DR428 - $15.95, Newer Style Rotor for Tall Cap - Standard Motor Products No. purpose are the -6AN connectors shown. Someone already put an oversize plug in, and it stripped out as well. With the
then 4 more on the inside, two of which you can't get to until the flywheel is removed. able to do its job, so I notched out the riser to match the gasket with a Dremel tool. Please install Cam Bearings since they are pressed in. close look at what you have. Just clean it really good and leave it in place. If not, you are probably good to go. Lastly, for this
Gorilla anything, just smooth and easy movement until the job is finished. I will NOT use them if the machine shop expert
The push
ready for installation, gather up all the necessary bolts, nuts, washers, and fittings and that subsystem is complete. They are relatively cheap and handy to have around the shop. I used a crescent wrench on the shaft of my
with an older vintage filter assembly or a newer one. You can easily ruin not only the seal, but the timing cover too. There shouldn't be any. I am all for getting the right tool for the job, but I haven't found an economic way of making washers that size. well. To do this, I just moved the template over 1/4" and traced the 1/2" Plate to accommodate the new size. Once you have the outside pattern as well as the hole pattern, cut it out with scissors and place it over your 1/8" plate. I see many cracked ones that are not usable. Research and ask the Machine Shop to give clarification. and free from rust in the future. way. I like to make sure all freeze plugs are removed, all threaded ports open, anything that can aid in getting the internals of the engine
Here is why... Each piston rod belongs in the cylinder it was put in, in
Use regular non detergent oil for those
Both of these products are 500 degree paint, so it should work nicely. I wanted the Module very close to the Distributor and Coil, so I made this plate that bolts on to the coil
You can run into all sorts of problems installing a Head if you don't take a little time first and
It will make this rebuild so much more fun. available as of this writing so if you feel the float has sprung a leak, or just to be precautionary, order a new one. sure those three countersunk screws were torqued down tight. already bolted the Intake and Exhaust together, remove the bolts/nuts and install the gasket included in your kit. the way down. Once each crank bearing is properly installed in the block, and there is a liberal amount of assembly lube on the blocks bearing
In my humble opinion, it is easiest to remove the transmission, clutch assembly, and flywheel when it's
we aren't taking anything for granted. Then just inside
This leaves a ridge about 3/16" wide or so. That number goes on the cam side. Again, you may have to turn the crank a bit to get the bolts out. ability to bypass the thermostat and get water in the engine are the water temp sensor at the top of the head, or the heater inlet to the water pump. Water works best and easiest to clean up. The part that tightens down to the Distributor shaft is something
You may have to tweak the metal barrel so that it goes into the
Rear Intermediate = .0025
DO that again for the other valve for that
It is not a good idea to put them anywhere else. Nothing of any surprise really
The problem comes in that for a stock enthusiast you don't want a visible nasty looking HEI Module showing anywhere. Had any lifters or rods been bad or you want a second opinion, you will have this information
Once the paint is cured, overnight preferably, spray WD40 on all the parts and inside
for now.
Since you can't confuse the very front and the very back, no numbers are needed, but the two
That is the procedure, however, in this case, I was not happy with the condition of
problem I have with it is that it doesn't have an index or any way for me to tell how far to bend. when you order from an auto parts store these days, you never know which style you are going to get (inlet/outlet wise), I would suggest taking the time to
Wire brush away the carbon and
Maybe a few shop rags. It's
We want to preserve that bolt head retainer tin so very lightly tap on the
Make sure your chosen gasket isn't plugging any holes or in the way of anything. The rotor even turns properly! won't happen, we need to weld a 1/4" nut near the bottom and exactly where the thicker part of the carb flange is located on both sides. A must-read for English-speaking expatriates and internationals across Europe, Expatica provides a tailored local news service and essential information on living, working, and moving to your country of choice. Take a
We will be addressing the concerns
The rings are very sloppy in their correct positions so you
drilled evenly around it for the stop pin and they are also 1/2". job. that end. your truck. we need it to be. I draw the line with
reveal a round nut with slots on both sides of the screw. As we address each system, we will update this list. The accelerator
The above modification is very solid and with loctite on those Allen setscrews, it will provide you with years of service. This is really beyond the scope of this article since any number of things could cause
Once your hex bolts are tight, don't
Take A Sneak Peak At The Movies Coming Out This Week (8/12) “Look for the helpers” – Celebrities helping out amid Texas storm; New Movie Releases This Weekend: February 19th – February 21st This is the SAME orientation taken AGAIN after doing the cleaning. butterfly is frozen solid. Use a
just unravel on you. Before welding them together, bevel the edge all the way around the tubing to give good room for the weld. the checkball sits on top of it and meters the gas intake. The holes adjacent to each other for the handle are 7/8". Metal side towards the exhaust. This takes lots of patience and prep work. product (65313). The piston rod bearing housings have a number on them which is the cylinder number. The only
I
There are exceptions for machined surfaces with close tolerances. Front Main = .002. We also do not want to sandblast that part of the
Place the PCV valve in, plumb it to your
Two things needed right away are a proper Engine Stand and a
If not, have your ventilation
He stocks a lot of hard to find parts and could very well save the day! 2373 - $11.77, Stainless Steel Engine Bolt Kit - Totally Stainless 55-62 235/261 Original Style - $50, Accelerator Return Spring - Classic Parts of America No. says to buy new ones. This means: To remove the crankshaft, I use a 1/2" drive breakover bar with 3/4" socket because these bolts are torqued down very well. This assembly is notorious for being very dirty, mostly or completely
the cardboard over the metal and center punch both), and drill your 3 engine mounting holes to 13/32". lobe is 180 out and the cam is on the base circle or firing position. This is where I took the opportunity to end once and for all the fuss concerning making a generic engine stand work properly with our precious inline
If your flywheel has a mating
crimper properly, but just take it slow and if you don't get in a hurry, it will all come out great! I will do further testing once this engine is
tighten just a little (since it should need it) and do it again. This is good for the purpose of documenting because
The torque spec
at the firing stroke for #1. Turn the T-Square over and do the same
The finish needs to remain as much as possible. Experts tell me to not use assembly lube here. Start by removing the 1/2" pipe with the fittings on it. Get some
bolts piecemeal perhaps from a hardware store, look carefully at the bolt heads and be sure to get the proper strength bolts. The round stock was
made in Flint, Michigan. All of the rod bearings are exactly the same. Let's remove the piston rod caps. Very smooth operation. It's broke off or rusted almost to non-existence on many of them. A lot of times the checkball gets stuck and won't come out. With your crankshaft installed, the next step is to install the timing plate. The little tab in the very center protrudes
Let's take a look at what is already
stone over it little by little until it barely meets the surface. To loosen this
that number is F302B. Do you have any documentation that would lead you
still on the truck. That number breaks down as follows "F" means the engine was
Scrapers, Brushes, Scotch-Brite Pads, etc. first, then put the screws back in the oil pump using medium Loctite. are at 45 foot pounds, the oil pump connections are tight, everything you cannot get to after the oil pan is installed is completely ready for prime time. want ALL the sand, or residue, or whatever out of your work, it will accomplish this. is not. around a little and the gear should slide right off. address whatever is happening. Once you have about 2 quarts of water in there, your drain-cock should start pouring water all over the floor. First the spring, then the wafer. It points IN with the dogleg facing OUT. It's not any big deal to slice through some exhaust pipe, but it IS pretty difficult to make your own 2-5/8" OD, 2-1/4" ID washers. for this one is NAPA part number 2-5194A (V15049). Do NOT sandblast the shaft. punching kit for stamping steel. Take the three sections of gasket out of your gasket kit and
This is because we want to thoroughly inspect the ball that comes in
take them with you to your engine shop. This is a popular
The reverse is not true. 28 is the day of the month and 9 is the year. Once you have the ring compressor
you do not blast, just clean everything off in your small parts washer, put all of the hardware in labeled ZipLock bags, and prepare to
The way I break the rods loose from the caps is, I leave the nuts on the rod, but unscrewed
See if the harmonic balancer moves in more. It isn't an exact science, but hammer until it no longer moves. for the small screws is 6-7-1/2 foot pounds. This entire system is described HERE. Reason is because you ground then down to
Some Clues For Identifying the Condition of Your Engine, Removing the Harmonic Balancer and Oil Pump, Finishing any Machining prior to Assembly, Engine Break-in (Initial Run-up) Procedure. right the first time. Cut 5/8" off the end to expose that much of the center conductor, then fit the metal
the engine block and everything is right, weld the lug nuts on the plate, then test it on the engine block again. Cylinder #1: Compression Ring #1 (top): .015
This particular Fel-Pro Copper Gasket has a
Do you see visible cracks in the water jacket or anywhere else? There are ways to cut the cost of this build that make sense. Remember, to remove Loctite Red you have to heat the screws up to 500 degrees! Get the water pump gasket out of your gasket kit as shown. In my case, I have a few things on my
Do not be too interested in making changes during these first 20 minutes. The smashed Plastigage will likely be on the journal. cap. Take your time on these steps and read the Shop Manual for that year engine to verify. Large (not the aluminum one) checkball, then the new very small spring (looks like the spring off an ink pen), then the T which goes down into
Check for leaks, or anything that could mess up a full engine run. Go by that and you can't lose. of straight condition. about another 20% of you. Please install the freeze plugs and Oil Galley plugs for me. We will
Since we are getting our gasket set from the Machine Shop, there isn't
Measure very exacting between your two lines and that is the very center of the engine. When finished, find a nice container that you
thermostat in the right direction. Our ZipLock Bag system is
place will lead to excessive wear or premature failure. If all three agree, and it makes common sense, it goes in the document. Oil Pan, Side Cover, Timing Cover and Valve Cover get no paint
To make that bushing retrieval
Cut a piece of the 2-3/4", 5/8"
The Timing Gear Cover is held on by 8 short screws, and two longer screws that you can get to from the outside. just have to put in the time. There are pictures earlier in this document to help you get it
No matter what the machine shop says as far as if your block and head are healthy and
Its VERY important your rings do not move. Because
NOTE: The Shop Manual is specific about NOT using a bench vise to clamp the piston rods in as you tighten the clamp. This newer style puts all of the upper engine
You will sleep better knowing
rods. Chances are the bearings will fall out. Even then, adjustments in the floats and needle valve were necessary to get it running decent. ones in a long time. Another freeze plug works. pull out the Oil Pump. B is February,
Let's move on
rid of unwanted residue. Click to get the latest Buzzing content. Just before we install the Pistons
The problem is in connecting the engine to a generic stand. Cut off a small piece of
two in the front) I did the same thing the Shop Manual suggested for removing the four oil galley plugs, which was drilling a 3/8" hole
I use my blast cabinet and #1 Silica Sand to do the job. do is to document how to make that adapter. The
This is a 1-1/4" cup style freeze plug with a 3/4" hole in it. sure your front Crankshaft Bearing cap is loose, then install the two hex head bolts but loosely. You will see there is only one way of putting them on correctly. too tight so it takes some real work to get it on. So, measure the length of hose you need
from anywhere, etc. are not perfect, you will want to replace them. then remember when assembling the shafts oil holes face downward. Use an air impact wrench and torque it down good. Loose is better than tight if you error on the safe side. 105 is a white, waterproof, NLGI No. In this case, someone didn't want to address the small hole made by a sharp rock and used bondo to cover it. Once you have a nice, neat line setup, we can move on to filling the engine with fluids.
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